Comme des Garçons: The House That Embraces Anti-Perfume

· 2 min read · Lire en français

TL;DR: Comme des Garçons fully embraces an "anti-perfume" approach, with deliberately atypical compositions built around notes found nowhere else — hot metal, photocopier, tar. Not a house for everyone, and that's exactly the point.

A house that deliberately rejects classic codes

Where most niche houses seek to reinvent existing olfactory families, Comme des Garçons takes the opposite approach: building compositions deliberately far removed from anything resembling a "classic" perfume, even if it confuses part of the audience used to more conventional reference points.

Odeur 53 and Odeur 71: the founding "anti-perfumes"

Odeur 53 is regularly described as one of the most disorienting compositions ever produced, built around 53 non-traditional notes rather than a classic olfactory accord. Odeur 71 continues this same logic with notes evoking electricity, hot metal, photocopiers, or toasters — an approach some call bold, others call sheer provocation, but it never leaves anyone indifferent.

Series 6 Synthetic: Tar, the most extreme example

Continuing this experimental logic, the Series 6 line explores even more radical materials — Tar literally evoking the smell of asphalt. It's a composition described as wearable despite its strangeness, but clearly designed for an audience seeking unusual olfactory experiences rather than a perfume in the conventional sense.

The original eponymous perfume: a more accessible entry point

The house's first men's perfume (1994), often described as amber-spicy, remains more accessible than the experimental compositions mentioned above — a good starting point for discovering the house's sensibility without diving directly into its most radical compositions.

Who is this house for?

Comme des Garçons clearly isn't chasing consensus: it's a house to explore if you're already familiar with perfumery standards and looking to go off the beaten path, rather than a recommended starting point for a first contact with niche.

FAQ

Is Comme des Garçons a good first niche house?

Not really — it's a house to explore once you're familiar with perfumery standards, rather than a starting point for a first contact with niche.

What makes Odeur 53 so distinctive?

Its composition built around 53 non-traditional notes, the opposite of a classic olfactory accord — one of the house's founding "anti-perfumes."

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