TL;DR: fresh, citrus, or aquatic perfumes dominate in summer because they're lighter in the heat, while woody, amber, or gourmand perfumes come into their own in cold weather, where projection travels more slowly. But the enthusiast community agrees on one thing: there's no strict rule, only tendencies.
Why temperature changes how a perfume is perceived
Heat speeds up the evaporation of scent molecules: a rich, heavy perfume can become overwhelming in full summer heat, while the same perfume in winter will diffuse more gently and last longer on skin. Conversely, a light, fresh perfume risks disappearing within minutes in cold weather, since it has less material to "hold" in the air.
Which profiles work best in summer
- Citrus and aquatic notes: light, refreshing, perfect for the heat
- Green and light floral notes: evoke a sense of freshness without being overwhelming
- More discreet projection: in strong heat, sweat amplifies the perception of an overly concentrated perfume
Which profiles come into their own in winter
- Woody and amber: more enveloping, they pair well with heavier clothing and the cold
- Gourmand and spicy: the coolness of the air lets these heavier notes stay pleasant without becoming sickly
- Smoky or animalic notes: often judged too intense in summer, they show better in cold weather
These aren't hard rules
The most widely shared consensus among experienced collectors: it's entirely possible to wear a "winter" perfume in summer (with fewer sprays) or a "summer" perfume in winter, simply by adjusting the amount applied. These categories are reference points for discovering new perfumes, not rules to follow to the letter.
How to adapt your perfume wardrobe to the season
Rather than buying a different perfume for every season, many collectors prefer to own two or three complementary profiles (a fresh one, a woody one, a gourmand one) and simply adjust which one they wear based on the day's weather. Keeping track of what you wear and when also makes it easier to spot your own seasonal preferences over time.