TL;DR: Le Labo became known through Santal 33, now nearly as much of a cult (and debated) favorite as Baccarat Rouge 540. The rest of the catalog, more low-key, is still worth exploring for anyone looking for something beyond that best-seller.
Santal 33: the perfume that made the brand mainstream
Over time, Santal 33 has become one of the most recognizable and widely-worn niche perfumes — to the point of losing some of its original low-key status. Its woody composition, partly built around a leather note and synthetic sandalwood, is still far from unanimous: some find it too dense and sweet (a coconut note comes up often in criticism), while others consider it one of the most striking woody perfumes of the last decade.
A wear time that stands out from the rest of the brand's catalog
A point that comes up often in internal brand comparisons: Santal 33 lasts noticeably longer (8 to 12 hours by most reports) than other Le Labo references, known for being more discreet and closer to the skin. So it's not necessarily representative of the house's catalog as a whole.
Beyond Santal 33: a catalog worth exploring
Rose 31, often compared to Santal 33 in enthusiast discussions, offers a spicier, less consensual profile. Vetiver 46 is another reference regularly cited for those looking for something drier and less gourmand than the brand's best-seller.
Is it worth going beyond Santal 33?
For collectors who already own Santal 33 or tried it without being convinced, exploring the rest of the Le Labo catalog reveals very different profiles — the brand clearly can't be summed up by its best-selling perfume, even if that's the one that made it known to the general public.